CONTEMPORARY ART ON FASHION IN JEMBER FASHION CARNAVAL (2016-2021 )

As a fashion show that includes members of all societal strata, Jember Fashion Carnival (JFC) is regarded as a must-attend cultural event in East Java. In modern civilization, fashion is used as a means of communication to express social, cultural, and personal identity. Art and fashion share many similarities in how they portray or convey feelings, expression, amusement, and being presented. The term experimental, a subset of contemporary art, has its roots in the creation of clothing that pushes the boundaries of both fashion and performance art, or as it is known in the language of fashion, the avant-garde. This study intends to ascertain the evolution of contemporary art at JFC as well as the impact of contemporary art on fashion at JFC events, particularly from 2016 to 2021. The data gathered were examined inductively as a cultural inquiry utilizing ethnographic techniques. The visual cultural portion includes shape, color, texture, fashion, and the arts. Regarding poetry and how to develop and connect ideas, the aesthetics of art and fashion are similarly similar. Avant-garde fashion is contemporary art applied, yet one might also say that fashion is a costume in contemporary art. In JFC, the focus is on the artists' creative processes, and how innocence and wildness in their work emerge. They also receive guidance and instruction on creating, applying makeup, walking, and dancing. The Jember Fashion Carnival not only has a theme but also emphasizes the theatricality and soul of the costumes. Values, excitement, and motivation to create fashion pieces fuel the carnival's rebirth. In addition, each theme also incorporates components of values, culture, humanism, compassion, and openness to different viewpoints.


INTRODUCTION
The East Java tourist program includes Jember Fashion Carnaval (JFC), one of the largest costume festivities listed as the most important cultural event in East Java.It began as an annual event of the Dynand Fariz extended family and, after several setbacks, began on January 1, 2003.According to jember network.com2021 (Farida, 2021), the Jember Fashion Carnaval was held for the first time and developed as it is now an annual activity of the city of Jember.After winning in the International Carnival de Victoria,

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Africa, Dynand Fariz demonstrated why JFC deserves its ranking as the third-largest event in the world.
Additionally, JFC has demonstrated several international accomplishments, including the Best National Costume, which was also successfully presented by JFC in competitions attended by 40 to 80 nations worldwide.
Speaking of costumes excludes garments or apparel, fashion nowadays refers to more than simply what is worn.According to Malcolm Barnard (2013), the Latin term factio, meaning "to make," is closely connected to the English word fashion from an etymological standpoint.As a result, fashion is an activity that involves a person, although the definition of fashion indeed includes a form, kind, process, or action.
According to Carlyle (1978), fashion is a sign of the soul and can reveal a person's identity.
Fashion design also requires artistic components.Langer claims that art is a type of expression made for our perceptions through the senses and imagery, and what is expressed are human feelings in Sumardjo's book (Sumardjo, 2000).Since fashion is what we wear on our bodies and how the person who wears it expresses themselves, there is a direct connection between fashion and art.
The same is true of art; it tells a tale about life and is a product of the artist.According to Djojosudarmo (2000), the word "contemporary" itself derives from the English word "contemporary," which refers to something or people who are living at the same moment.As a result of its creation during the current era, contemporary art is just that-contemporary.According to Arthur Danto in his book The End of Art, contemporary work is made with a framework that is not just something basic from that era and is plainly perceived as something that is happening right now (Danto, 1995).
Fashion is a form of art, and according to Angelic Benton's (2012) research, there are numerous parallels between art and fashion.
Fashion displays or reveals emotions, expressions, modes of dressing, and modes of amusement.Similar principles apply to art, which entertains and expresses sentiments (Benton, 2012).

RESEARCH METHOD
The JFC assessment was carried out through a deeply rooted cultural approach.
The qualitative research method, to examine the conditions of natural objects, was also used where the researcher acted as a key instrument, data collection techniques were carried out in a triangulated manner, the data analysis was done inductively, and the results emphasized meaning rather than generalizations (Abdussamad, 2021).
The data gathered from the field were meaningf ul.By using inductive analysis, these data were examined.When using ethnographic research techniques, the researcher observed the study's subject in its prior incarnation.The necessary data were gathered through interviews and data collection to produce data that can be validated and accurately represents the community under study.This study was done at the Jember Fashion Carnival (JFC) to learn how contemporary art evolved.

Source of Data
The Jember Fashion Carnival served as the research's data source from 2016 to 2021, providing information for the previous five years to track changes over that time.The researcher's use of a cultural research methodology to support this research activity was based on: a.Primary Data To gather information regarding contemporary art in fashion during the Jember fashion carnival, researchers used primary data, which was empirical information gathered directly from key informants through direct interviews and a list of questions.b.Secondary Data Secondary data were gathered from books, papers, and other publications.Therefore, secondary data originates from the second, third, and so forth, which means it has been influenced by one or more parties besides the researchers.In this regard, the secondary data employed in this study came from papers, books, and the website for the Jember Fashion Carnival.RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONSFashion and Art Fashion and art are part of the visual culture aspect, which involves shape, color, and texture.Regarding poetry and how to develop and connect ideas, the aesthetics of art and fashion are exactly similar.Even though it changes with the seasons, fashion maintains its distinctive qualities and cultural identity.It is the visual and material heart of human society.Art, in terms of art philosophy, is aesthetics or beauty as well as talent or skill where there are natural principles, according to Prof. Nanang MSD (Professor of Fine Arts, Sebelas Maret University).There are three types of art: media art, performance art, and fine visual art.Three different kinds of art exist: pure art, applied art, and craft.Design itself is a creative process activity that considers various factors, including function, aesthetics, materials, and processes, in line with the dynamics of the growth of (pure) art schools.This also has an impact on fashion since societal changes have a significant impact on all facets of life, including art and fashion.Contemporary Art on Fashion Contemporary Art is part of fine art which can be interpreted as a style.In general, if it is associated with the latest period, being present at a certain time means that it will always change, as is the case with fashion, so both are social phenomena or symptoms.Thus, the two have a relationship and develop together.The rules in the process of making clothes from materials and patterns of sewing techniques to usage are not in accordance with the rules and are a little difficult or indeed difficult to wear or, in this language, do not make sense.The production technique and the way to take ideas without any restrictions is called avant-garde, which means the result of the contemporary itself.In the manufacture of special clothing for carnivals or costumes, the use of contemporary techniques from head to toe is used since the technique of wearing clothes is not in accordance with the rules, and the usage is not as usual.Application is present in the modern design vision.Therefore, both the use and position might alter in the current design.The emblems used in the carnival are redesigned, applied, and incorporated into the clothing made here.As an illustration, consider the dragon-themed clothing worn by Miss Indonesia Universe.Since it is utilized above the head, the positioning is incorrect from the perspective of regular people.However, when creating costumes, they mimic the Komodo's dimensions, with a space between the neck and hands, for example, and the spacing among the legs.Technically, he was required to position the symbols in this manner.He took off the wearer's figure there.He called attention to the Komodo dragon outline.

Figure 2 .
Figure 2. with a theme -bian Lian Source: Private documentation by Sayful Asyari